What to Eat at élan, David Waltuck's Comeback Restaurant

General Tso's sweetbreads with leeks, orange, and chilies. Five years after the closing of fine-dining trailblazer Chanterelle, David Waltuck is back with a new restaurant in Gramercy, which opens tonight. At the 60-seat spot (inside the former Veritas space), Waltuck and co-owner George Stinson will serve an la carte menu, with dishes like stuffed chicken wings, chicken potpie, and duck-fat hash browns. It's certainly more casual than Chanterelle — but there's still seafood sausage — and é...